Make No. 30: Medieval Mandarin Collar Coat


Make No. 30 is a test drive for a hand drafted coat pattern – a simple medieval coat with a Mandarin (standing) collar. I’ll be making about ten matching coats using this pattern over the next couple of months, in different sizes, some with split sides and some not. I’ve also got an order for a reversible surgeon’s apron with pockets to scratch my head over. I love this stuff, although I seem to be skirting around the edges of Actual Maths. Shudder. Surely not!




My first challenge was the creation of a Mandarin collar, at which point my many reference books bore glorious and impressive fruit. Aaah, books…the trim, on the other hand, will have to be made from bias binding as I’d like it to run around the neckline and ordinary fabric just doesn’t have the stretch. I’ve got a big roll ordered. A very big roll.

I also wanted to enclose as many raw edges as possible, and I’ve managed it. A little French seam here, a little bias binding there, and we’re good to go.

So there we have it – a new skill acquired in the collar drafting department of my Sewing Brain, and the green light for a shedload of larp coats in the next few weeks. Eek. Bring it on.


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